Clover, a new neighbourhood bar from The Woods and Oxford Tap House crew, has opened in Holland Park
Gillian Letham is as surprised as anyone to be opening a new bar this year. As the hospitality industry at large continues to reckon with the aftershocks of the pandemic and the cost-of-living crisis that has ensued, youād be forgiven for thinking that the safest play for Gill was to sit tight and wait for conditions to improve. Well, thatās not really how Gill tends to operate. Just ask her yourself.
āMy friends call me a chaos junkie,ā says Gill with a laugh. āAt one point, I was meant to be selling bars, not buying them. But my nose gets the better of meĀ ā IāmĀ always looking.ā
GillāsĀ habit of keeping one eye on the real estate market has paid off with Clover,Ā the brand-new Holland Park haunt GillĀ and partner Gerard Hartnett quietly opened on Friday June 21. Nestled in the space previouslyĀ occupied by Suburban Social, Clover is a bright and airy bar and casual eatery boasting a shade under 100 seats.
Before youĀ assume that Clover isĀ aĀ hastilyĀ calculated product of impulse, itāsĀ necessary toĀ understand thatĀ when it comes to running successful watering holes, Gill and Gerard know their stuff ā like,Ā reallyĀ know their stuff. The hospitality veterans operateĀ The Oxford Tap HouseĀ in Bulimba andĀ The WoodsĀ in Mitchelton, both beloved and long-running suburban boozers.Ā Previously, the duo also helpedĀ fan the flames ofĀ Brisbaneās early craft-beer obsession with fondly rememberedĀ Fortitude Valley bar The Mill on Constance. All this is to say that if thereās one crew that you can trust toĀ deliver an approachable haunt with strong local appeal, itās this one.
āWe saw this site and thought it could have a tap house vibe ā aĀ little neighbourhood bar thatāsĀ within walking distance, which is definitely more the groove these days,āĀ GillĀ tells us.Ā āWe thought that if weĀ could do something like [The Oxford Tap House]Ā here, thatās what people would want.ā
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Though the Suburban Social space was already a convenient plug-and-play fit in terms of amenities, the Clover team has still spent a bit of time and effort giving the space a cosmetic touch-up, emphasising colour, brightness and character in order to makeĀ the jointĀ feel like an approachable all-day venue. A fresh colour palette comprised of muted orange and green hues contrasts with the sturdy timber bar and leatherĀ banquettes of the street-front dining space, while newly installed acoustic panelling,Ā new tiles on the floor around the bar, andĀ a range of hand-pickedĀ decorative pieces enhance the venueās pub-like qualities. Loads of natural light also pours through the windows and skylights,Ā a far cry fromĀ the moodier aestheticĀ ofĀ Cloverās siblings.
āThe Mill was aĀ dark building and when we moved out, weĀ cravedĀ itĀ ā soĀ we went quite darkĀ on the inside of The Woods,ā recalls Gill. āHere, itĀ still feels cosy at night, butĀ we wanted [Clover] toĀ feel nice and warm during the day, rather than dark.ā
āAt The Mill that [rotating tap list] was great āĀ that wasĀ its thing,ā says Gill. āPeople can be a little bit nervous if they come in and donāt recognise theĀ beers. Here we can say to them, āTaste these ones ā youāll alwaysĀ be able to get thisā.ā
Of Cloverās eight beer taps, fourĀ showcase rotating brews while the others are dedicated to mainstays like Guinness,Ā Young Henrys Natural Lager and Philterās XPA. Four extra taps have also been added, dispensing a low-ABV spritz, a Moscow Mule and two wines (a one-page wine list is also available). On the cocktail front, CloverĀ serves a clutch of shaken, lowball and highball concoctions. The classic Clover Club is a house signature, boasting an ambrosial mix of Noosa strawberry gin, lemon, raspberry syrup, aquafaba and a sprinkle of nutmeg.
Cloverās tight food menu walks a line between familiar fare and creative morsels. Classic favourites like chicken schnitzels, rib fillets and fried-chicken burgersĀ are available alongside an evolving selection of specials and out-of-the-box snacksĀ ā think teriyaki-glazed split tiger prawns, fried zucchini flowers with vegan dill mayo, and Szechuan calamari with nam jim dipping sauce.
āA lesson learned from likeĀ The Woods is that itās betterĀ for the menu toĀ be short and rotated,ā says Gill. āClover hasĀ those two or three mains that you always have. You canĀ come and get a steak and you can come and get a fish, but weāll also have a curry and a padĀ Thai and something that just sort of rotates around, so that next time there is somethingĀ different to try.ā
Though itās only a little over a week into its life, Clover already has the makings of a cherished community meeting point. Slickly stylish enough to work as a date-nightĀ dinner destination, but also casual and charming enough to suitĀ easygoing afternoonĀ catch-ups, Clover is as versatile as it is convenient.
āWeāre trying to make itĀ comfortable on either end,ā says Gill. āYou can come in and be a little bit fancier and have aĀ cocktail, or you can have a schnitty and a Guinness andĀ sit inĀ the backĀ and have a yatter.āĀ
Clover Neighbourhood Bar is now open to the public. Head to theĀ Stumble GuideĀ for operating hours andĀ menu details.
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